So: mechanical filtration filters particulates.
Now, in chemical filtration, substances that
are dissolved in the water, whether as molecules
or as dissociated ions, are eliminated in
a couple of possible ways. They can be adsorbed
to the surfaces of filter media, such as
activated carbon or zeolites. Or they can
be chemically bound to an ion-exchanging
resin. In almost every case, these are solutes
that are being removed from circulation,
not particulates.
Flocculation is the exception, where "chemical"
filtration operates on particulates.
Certain water "clarifiers" work
by coagulating fine particles and colloidal
matter in flocs that are massive enough to
settle out, once mutually repelling charges
have been neutralized. It's a two-step affair.
Coagulation is a chemical process. Then gentle
circulation encourages particle collisions
and the accumulation of a floc dense enough
to precipitate out. Floc is a spongy adsorbent
substance, which would attract bacteria and
other members of the biofilm community, given
time. No need to vacuum it all out.
Alkalinity aids in floc formation, so in
municipal wastewater management some extremely
caustic alkalis are used--— quicklime or
caustic soda ash--— that are unsuitable for
aquaria. But some aquarium flocculents use
alum (aluminum sulfate), which acts as a coagulant
for small negatively-charged particles whose
mutual repellance has been helping keep them
in circulation. Mardel's "Brite n' Clear,"
for one example, is a simple solution of
aluminum sulfate. A variety of synthetic
polymers are also widely used. Flocculants
aren't wholeheartedly recommended in aquaria
that have fish in them. The mucus membranes
of fishes' gills also bear negative charges,
so they can attract the flocculant, if it
is overdosed. Not good.
"Whereas competing products
may clog the fishes gills, suffocating them,
Kent Pro Clear uses a blend of high tech
polymers that will safely flocculate any
algae, dirt, bacteria or other cloudy water
causing particles. "
KentMarine warns you to "adjust alkalinity
to a minimum of 2 dKH (or 40 ppm or .75 meq/L)"
beforehand and to pre-dilute their product
in a glass of water before adding it to the
aquarium.
Apparently ProClear Freshwater reacts in
some way with the aquarium lighting:
"Note:
Do not use this product at night or on very
very soft water (i.e. below 40 ppm total
alkalinity) without first adjusting alkalinity
as directed above! Operate aquarium lights
a minimum of 4 hours after use and provide
good circulation and aeration during use!"
KentMarine also suggests that you reduce
the organics dissolved in the water beforehand.
They recommend their own oxidizer, which
contains "manganic acid salts"--
which would be H2MnO4 and should
be reacting somewhat like potassium permanganate-- but water changes and cautious use of
hydrogen peroxide would also work.
Adsorption. The more common kind of chemical filtration
acts on dissolved substances and involves
passing water through granular activated
charcoal or Polyfilter pads in the filtration
system.
This process of adsorption shouldn't be confused with absorption. In absorption, a liquid, along with any
dissolved molecules it contains, is held
within the minute spaces of a porous solid
by actions of surface tension and other physical
forces. In adsorption, the ions and molecules
dissolved in the water are bonded chemically
or by physical forces to the medium's solid
surfaces. Absorbed material can be flushed
out, as when you squeeze a sponge; adsorbed
material is "bound" to surfaces
and can't be flushed out. It must be displaced,
commonly by an ion that has a stronger charge.
De-sorption could also occur if the pH were
altered to an extreme of acidity or alkalinity,
conditions not found in the aquarium but
very useful in certain industrial processes.
What gets adsorbed? Adsorptive media bind to their vast surfaces
a long list of organic pollutants, like phenols (responsible for some "fishy"
odors and discoloration), thiols (sulfurous and stinky), and humic polyphenols like tannins (sometimes desirable, but also
responsible for yellowish to brown discoloration
of the water). Such large complicated organic
molecules are the resistant products that
remain when bacteria partially break down
organic substances. Other pollutants
taken up by adsorptive media are dyes and
perfumes, medications, benzene and other
volatile chemicals, etc.
What about metals? There's unresolved and sometimes vehement
controversy about whether heavy metals like
chromium and mercury, but also copper, manganese
and iron, are adsorbed to chemical filtration
media, and to what extent. Part of the confusion
may come from not separately considering
chelated metals and free metal ions. Activated
carbon and other adsorptive media strongly
attract both natural and artificial chelating
molecules, together with the metal ions associated
with them.
Dissolved chemical molecules get bonded to
the filter medium with an electro-chemical
bond. Normal rinsing doesn't break this bond.
As the media surfaces get increasingly covered
with a molecular monolayer of adsorbed substances,
chemical equilibrium is eventually reached,
where molecules are simultaneously adsorbing
to the surfaces and desorbing from them,
and the net adsorption decreases towards
zero. The medium is spent.
Biofouling. Long before all the possible chemical-bonding
sites can be occupied, the filtering medium
has ordinarily become so clogged with biofilm
that its chemical usefulness is impaired.
As soon as the medium you have selected for
chemical filtration is set into the filter
system, particulate matter may begin to be
trapped in it, so you always want to set
your chemical filtration medium downstream
from your mechanical filter. Nevertheless,
a bacterial film rapidly starts developing;
within a very short time, the biological
and mechanical effects of carbon in your
filter have overtaken its initial chemical
filtering.
Most chemical filter media do have a surprisingly
brief effective life. The carbon in your
filter does almost all its adsorbing work
in the first 48 hours! I was amazed when
I first saw the graphs printed with Tim Hovanec's
Aquarium Fish articles about activated carbon. The administration
and dosage foldout that is currently enclosed
with Maracide states "If an activated
carbon filter is over five days old, it may
be left in place." Whether you do leave
your filter carbon in place when medicating
or not, this goes to show how brief is the
effective life of activated carbon.
I think that you should generally consider
chemical filtration media as disposable.
Activated carbon could only be reactivated
at high heat in a closed kiln that was rendered
free of oxygen (a "reducing" atmosphere).
Not in your kitchen stove, as some aquarists
were attempting, with disappointing results
that made them skeptical of carbon's usefulness.
Re-release of adsorbents. An intuitive question is: Can adsorbed substances
be re-released into the aquarium water somehow?
The brief answer is: No. Still, some manufacturers
of filtration media offer dark hints that
cast doubts on rival products. In general,
to release substances from an ion-exchange
medium, you'd have to flush it with salty
brine, or with extremely acid (below pH 3.0)
or alkaline baths. "Recharging"
situations like these would never be found
in normal aquarium conditions. You'll hear
timid hedges like "possibly under certain
circumstances" from many knowledgeable
people. But the real plain answer is simply
"No."
An exception. Though substances adsorbed to granular activated
charcoal by electrochemical forces are not
going to be flushed back into the aquarium
water, substances with a stronger ionic charge
may "bump" ions with a weaker charge
from sites on a pretty thoroughly saturated
carbon filter.
It's good policy to keep the three aspects
of filtration separate in the filter, and
separate in your understanding. In other
words, though any filter medium tends to
become part of the biological filter, your
biological filtration should be sufficient
on its own; you shouldn't even be considering
the possible biological filtering capacity
that a couple of tablespoons of exhausted
charcoal in your filter might be offering.
Chemical filtration and planted aquaria. During the 1990s, activated carbon became
discredited by some planted-tank aquarists
who were dosing their water daily and sensed
that the carbon was adsorbing chelated metals
meant for plant fertilizer. Carbon adsorbs
the chelating end of chelated iron and copper.
Iron and manganese were adsorbed in experiments
by Shawn Keslar that he presented to the
Aquatic-Plants Digest. It was the chelating molecule that was grabbed,
not the attached metal ion: carbon does also
very slightly adsorb non-chelated metal ions,
but the effect is too trivial to concern
us. The question revolves around whether
you want to consider chelated copper and
iron as toxic heavy metals (they are) and
eliminate them, or whether you want to consider
chelated copper and iron as essential trace
elements (they are) required by your plants.
In a planted aquarium, the need for any chemical
filtration as a permanent feature of your
filtration regime is currently controversial.
Many keepers of planted aquaria are now eliminating
all carbon filtration. Some fishkeepers are
blindly eliminating carbon and other chemical
filter media, even in unplanted tanks.
You'll find parts of the discussion archived
at www.thekrib.com, something to be taken into account before
you make up your mind about carbon.
Links. Robert T. Ricketts' article on chemical
filtration, part of his "Filter Basics"
series in Tom Griffin's e-zine AquaSource, Dec. 2000, is archived at www.tomgriffin.com.